Look at this beautiful man!
This is an elderly Newari man. If you’ve read the book, you’ll recall that Newars were one of the original tribes that settled what is now the Kathmandu Valley. It’s their culture that survives to this day — all the fancy woodwork, the palaces, the festivals — all of this is Newari. And, not surprisingly, they’ve had to fight for their rights through the years. No, they never practiced animal sacrifice. That was a later influence to the area. Pharping is a Newar town in a Newar district. Can I tell the difference between a Newar and a non-Newar? Of course not.
Several weeks ago, while I was staying in Pharping, Shaha invited me to his mother’s birthday celebration at the Senior Center in town. This is just like any other Senior Center in the West, where folks gather for activities and events. After some rousing music, a presentation of blessings, tikas, and gifts, and eating a modest amount of food (and insisting, graciously but repeatedly, that I didn’t need an entire plate full of food nor did I need seconds or thirds), Shaha and I wandered back through the side streets. He was headed back to his shop, and I was headed down the hill back to the elder care home.
After a few minutes, he asked, “Do you want tea?”
I’ve learned not to say no. It’s just not something you do when someone offers you, a guest, some tea.
As we approached a small shop for tea, I noticed this man sitting on a stoop on the other side of the street, while two youngsters kicked a ball around near him. I asked him if I could take his picture, and — like all the other elders I’ve asked — he couldn’t understand why I would want his photo, but complied.
After I sat down near Shaha in the shop, he asked me if I knew why the man’s ears were pierced. When I said no, he proceeded to explain.
When a Newar man turns 77 years, 7 months, and 7 days old, he gets both earlobes pierced. When a Newar woman turns the same age, she also has her ears pierced. Because her lobes are already pierced, she gets her piercing at the upper part of her ear, through the cartilage. I feel compelled to mention the cartilage because piercing an ear through that area gives me the queasies. Why that specific age? When I asked, all Shaha said was that it was considered an “important date.”
Brahaman men and women (the highest caste), have these same piercings done on their 84th birthday.
So, there you have it. Another slice of life here in Nepal, and another tidbit of info for you to wow your friends with at the next cocktail party (do we even still have those?!).
Now, go out and CARPE DIEM, peoples!
Alicia
